KM888 - Lesson Beginner #2
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KM888 - Lesson Beginner #2
KM888 – Lesson Beginner #2
Welcome student to the second lesson of the “Beginners” section.
You can only attend this lesson if you have taken the previous lesson (link: https://nightshadeduelacadem.forumotion.com/t499-km888-lesson-beginner-1) and passed the test from that subject.
Last lesson I gave you guys (and girls) an 8-steps plan of “how i make my decks”. If you don’t remember that, here it is again:
We have done step 1 in our last lesson. By now I really hope that you know what a staple is, and how to use them. If not, you can always ask me by sending me a pm (I give private lessons at the cost of 10 NDA points).
For today, I’m going to teach you about the Deck-Specific Cards. This is probably the hardest part of deck building and so I’m gonna split this lesson up in 2 parts.
The choices of these cards, and what you should put in the Deck is probably the most difficult thing there is about Deckbuilding. To know what to pick, and what not to pick are things that you mostly know by “feeling” it out. It’s a hard proces to learn. Yet, I’ll do my best teaching it to you.
Going minus and going plus
This is something you all got to know, before we can go any further. The concept of going minus OR going plus is relatively easy to understand, as long as you pay a bit attention.
Just by the meaning of the words plus and minus, we can already think that going minus is something negative, while going plus is probably something positive. This is most certainly the case.
When starting the duel both players have 5 cards in their hands. The turn player draws at their Draw Phase, and has a 1 card advantage over the opponent at this moment (remember the opponent is going to draw too, so this 1 card doesn’t matter).
I’ll now show you some examples that expleign the terms of going minus or plus. (These examples start at the opening hand each time).
This proces all lies in the simple matter of counting cards. During the duel you could count each card a person has on the field. The person with the largest amount of cards has an advantage and basically went less minus than the other person.
Winning duels is dependent of this in 50% of the cases (lets put some nice topdecks and strategies in the other 50%)
The most important cards of Archetypes are those that make you go plus, or make the opponent go minus. This is a first good indicator to how good a card is.
Off course, all the theoretical stuff might seem difficult and you don’t like to read that. Thus, lets look at an example of an Archetype. My favourite one: Reptile-type “Worms”.
Lets go over these 1 by 1, and see if they can make you go plus, or the opponent go minus.
I have just made a huge list why all these archetype cards are good or bad. What makes them plus or minus and so on. This is, like I said, the hardest thing to do for a Decklist. So I’m going to quit this lesson right here, so we can practise on this somewhat.
This will be your homework that you have to send to me in a pm:
Welcome student to the second lesson of the “Beginners” section.
You can only attend this lesson if you have taken the previous lesson (link: https://nightshadeduelacadem.forumotion.com/t499-km888-lesson-beginner-1) and passed the test from that subject.
Last lesson I gave you guys (and girls) an 8-steps plan of “how i make my decks”. If you don’t remember that, here it is again:
- Spoiler:
- Step 1) Staples and/or Semi-staples
Step 2) Deck-Specific Cards
Step 3) Tech Choices
Step 4) Deck-Filling OR Deck-Thinning
Step 5) Extra Deck
Step 6) Adjustments in Main Deck?
Step 7) Testing
Step 8) Side Deck
We have done step 1 in our last lesson. By now I really hope that you know what a staple is, and how to use them. If not, you can always ask me by sending me a pm (I give private lessons at the cost of 10 NDA points).
For today, I’m going to teach you about the Deck-Specific Cards. This is probably the hardest part of deck building and so I’m gonna split this lesson up in 2 parts.
- What are deck-specific cards?:
- For me, deck-specific cards are the cards you need because of the archetype you want to build a deck around. This might be difficult to understand so I’m going to make a small listing of these cards. First of all for those who don’t understand what an archetype is.
- Archetype?:
- An Archetype is a group of cards that respect the following rules:
- All members of that group of cards must contain a common term (the name of the archetype) appearing in their members’ Japanese card names or their must be a line of tekst in a member’s card effect that specifically states that the card belongs to a certain archetype (example: “Chimera the Flying Mythical Beast”). Cards with the same words in their English card names are not necessarily part of the same archetype (example: “Frog the Jam” is not part of the Frog archetype).
- There must be at least one Support or Anti-support card relating to the archetype, that is, a card that references that term in their name, or mentions it in their effect using the phrases “contains archetype in their card name” or “archetype monsters”. Note that support cards must support the entire archetype and not just 1 member of the archetype.
Examples of archetypes are: “HERO” / “Worm” / “Wind-Up” / “Spellbook” / “Lswarm” - All members of that group of cards must contain a common term (the name of the archetype) appearing in their members’ Japanese card names or their must be a line of tekst in a member’s card effect that specifically states that the card belongs to a certain archetype (example: “Chimera the Flying Mythical Beast”). Cards with the same words in their English card names are not necessarily part of the same archetype (example: “Frog the Jam” is not part of the Frog archetype).
Now for the list of Deck-specific cards.- Members of the Archetype
- Support-cards for that archetype
- Support-cards for typing AND/OR attribute
The choices of these cards, and what you should put in the Deck is probably the most difficult thing there is about Deckbuilding. To know what to pick, and what not to pick are things that you mostly know by “feeling” it out. It’s a hard proces to learn. Yet, I’ll do my best teaching it to you.
Going minus and going plus
This is something you all got to know, before we can go any further. The concept of going minus OR going plus is relatively easy to understand, as long as you pay a bit attention.
Just by the meaning of the words plus and minus, we can already think that going minus is something negative, while going plus is probably something positive. This is most certainly the case.
When starting the duel both players have 5 cards in their hands. The turn player draws at their Draw Phase, and has a 1 card advantage over the opponent at this moment (remember the opponent is going to draw too, so this 1 card doesn’t matter).
I’ll now show you some examples that expleign the terms of going minus or plus. (These examples start at the opening hand each time).
- Example 1:
The turn player decides to Normal Summon “Elemental HERO Stratos”. You activate the effect of Stratos and search a card from your Deck. Now you still have 6 cards in your hand. You just got a bigger advantage over your opponent, cause even when he draws at his Draw Phase, you’ll still have a 1 card advantage over him/her.
You just went plus 1 (or shorter +1).
- Example 2:
The turn player decides to play “Dark World Dealings”. Both players draw a card and dicard 1 card afterwards. You decide to discard “Trance Archfiend”. If you would count your hand right here, you’ll notice you only have 5 cards left in your hand. When your opponent will draw in his Draw Phase, he’ll have 6 cards what gives you a 1 card disadvantage.
You just made yourself go minus 1 (or shorter -1).
- Example 3:
The turn player decided to play “Dark World Dealings”. Both players draw a card and discard 1 card afterwards. Both players decide to discard “Broww, Huntsman of Dark World”.
Both player’s “Broww” effect activates right here. So you draw 1 card and your opponent draws 2 cards (because of Broww’s secondary effect).
You still have 6 cards in your hand right now, but your opponent suddenly also has 6 cards. When he draws in the Draw Phase, he’ll have 7 cards.
The opponent went +1 thanks to your card’s effect.
(You could also say you went -1, but because the opponent got the extra card, there is rather said that the opponent went +1).
- Example 4:
The turn player decides to set 4 cards and then activate the Spell “Dragged Down into the Grave”. Both players get to discard from the opponent’s hand and afterwards draw 1 card. You saw that the opponent has 2 “Thunder King Rai-Oh” in his hand. You end your turn.
In the opponent’s Standby Phase you activate “Mind Crush” and call “Thunder King Rai-Oh”. Because you used 1 card to get rid of 2 cards of the opponent, you made the opponent go -1 pertaining to you.
This proces all lies in the simple matter of counting cards. During the duel you could count each card a person has on the field. The person with the largest amount of cards has an advantage and basically went less minus than the other person.
Winning duels is dependent of this in 50% of the cases (lets put some nice topdecks and strategies in the other 50%)
The most important cards of Archetypes are those that make you go plus, or make the opponent go minus. This is a first good indicator to how good a card is.
Off course, all the theoretical stuff might seem difficult and you don’t like to read that. Thus, lets look at an example of an Archetype. My favourite one: Reptile-type “Worms”.
Lets go over these 1 by 1, and see if they can make you go plus, or the opponent go minus.
- Worm Archetype:
- Worm Apocalypse:
FLIP: Select and destroy 1 Spell or Trap Card.
This card makes the opponent lose 1 card, while you still have your monster (if you can flip it). This could make the opponent go minus 1 while you remain all your cards. When the opponent attacks this card however, you can destroy a Spell or Trap as well, which means you stay neutral (both players lose 1 card) or you even go minus 1 (incase the opponent didn’t have backrow). - Worm Barses:
When this card is Normal Summoned: Target 1 Defense Position monster; change that target to face-up Attack Position.
It doesn’t have an immediate plus or minus to his effect. It might help later on, but for now it does nothing. - Worm Cartaros:
FLIP: Add 1 Level 4 or lower Reptile-Type "Worm" monster from your Deck to your hand.
A searcher for the Deck. Wonderful, this makes you go plus 1. - Worm Dimikles:
FLIP: This card gains 300 ATK and DEF.
So you have to wait a turn to have a level 4 with 2000 ATK on the field with no added effect ?? I can just as well play a Normal monster with 2000 ATK. No added plusses or minuses either. - Worm Erokin:
This card cannot be Special Summoned. Once per turn, select 1 face-up Reptile-Type "Worm" monster on the field and change it into face-down Defense Position.
This card has the same effect as “Worm Barses”, but you need to Tribute one to get it on the field. Seems a bit farfetched. You also don’t get any plusses or minuses from it. - Worm Falco:
FLIP: Change all face-up Reptile-Type "Worm" monsters you control to face-down Defense Position, except this card.
So again that same effect that doesn’t make you go plus or makes the opponent go minus. - Worm Gulse:
Each time a face-down Defense Position monster is flipped face-up, place 1 Worm Counter on this card. This card gains 300 ATK for each Worm Counter on it.
So basically just something that tries to power up. It needs 2 Flips to actually reach a point where it could become useful. It also doesn’t give you any plusses or minuses. - Worm Hope:
FLIP: When this card is flipped face-up by an opponent's monster's attack, draw 1 card. When this card is sent from the field to the Graveyard, send 1 card in your hand to the Graveyard.
In first instant it makes you go plus 1, but unless there is something like “Macro Cosmos” on the field, that plus is suddenly lost. - Worm Illidan:
Each time a card is Set on your side of the field, place 1 Worm Counter on this card. You can remove 2 Worm Counters from this card to destroy 1 card your opponent controls.
This card could actually be a major minus for the opponent. Summon this guy, set 2 cards in your backrow and destroy 1 card from your opponent. Set another 2 cards and blow another thing up. Sadly you need to Tribute Summon this behemoth, so you go minus 1 summoning this card. You could make the opponent go minus more, but it’s going to be a hard job. - Worm Jetelikpse:
FLIP: When this card is destroyed and sent to the Graveyard this turn, Special Summon it in Defense Position.
Extra defense is extra defense. It gives you a small +1 when attacked since you get your monster back. - Worm King:
This card can be Tribute Summoned in face-up Attack Position by Tributing 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster. You can Tribute 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster to select 1 card your opponent controls, and destroy it.
A Level 8 Worm (thus summonable by “W Nebula Meteorite”) that lives on one-offs. It doesn’t give you plusses or minuses, but it’s a decent effect. A bit like an MST for every kind of card on the field. - Worm Linx:
FLIP: During each End Phase, if this card is face-up, draw 1 card.
The longer this card remains on the field, the more you go plus. This effect can make you the match easily. If you get to flip it, you can draw in your End Phase, then in your opponent’s End Phase. Then your End Phase and so on.
It’s basically 3 draws in your Draw Phase, which makes for a +2 each turn. - Worm Millidith:
FLIP: You can equip this card to a monster your opponent controls as an Equip Card. Inflict 400 damage to the controller of the equipped monster during each Standby Phase.
Seeing as how Xyz and Synchro are possible, this card will most likely be a minus for yourself. - Worm Noble:
FLIP: If this card is flipped face-up by an opponent's monster's attack, inflict damage to your opponent equal to half the attacking monster's ATK.
Tributing a monster just for defense. It doesn’teven have more DEF than Stardust Dragon …
This is a minus 1 for yourself. - Worm Opera:
FLIP: All face-up monsters on the field lose 500 ATK, except Reptile-Type "Worm" monsters.
Not really any plusses or minuses. But rather a weak effect. - Worm Prince:
If this card destroys an opponent's monster by battle, you can add 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster from your Deck to your hand. If you don't control at least 1 other Reptile-Type "Worm" monster, destroy this card during the End Phase.
This would be an easy card to plus with, were it not that he is probably going to kill himself, while you also had to Tribute Summon him. This card will more than likely be a minus for you instead of a plus. - Worm Queen:
You can Tribute Summon this card in face-up Attack Position by Tributing 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster. Once per turn, you can Tribute 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster to Special Summon 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster from your Deck with a Level less than or equal to the Tributed monster.
This card can cause serious Deck Thinning, which can help you to a certain extend. It’s also a Level 8 (So a target for W Nebula Meteorite) so it’s easily brought to the field.
It doesn’t have any other plusses or minuses. - Worm Rakuyeh:
This card can only declare an attack during the turn it is flipped face-up. If this card attacks, it is changed to face-down Defense Position at the end of the Battle Phase.
So basically you have to wait a turn to have a 2100 ATK beater. No plusses or minuses, but some downsides about the card. - Worm Solid:
This card gains 100 DEF for each Reptile-Type "Worm" monster in your Graveyard. If your opponent takes Battle Damage by attacking this card, select and destroy 1 Spell or Trap Card your opponent controls at the end of the Damage Step.
This card can give you plusses, but only 1x, cause I doubt the opponent will that stupid to keep attack this thing with low attack monsters. - Worm Tentacles:
Once per turn, you can remove from play 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster from your Graveyard. If you do, this card can attack twice during this turn's Battle Phase.
2 Attacks in 1 turn? Could make the opponent go minus. They lose 2 monsters for your 1 attacking monster. - Worm Ugly:
If you use this card to Tribute Summon a Reptile-Type "Worm" monster, you can Special Summon this card from your Graveyard to your opponent's side of the field in face-up attack position.
So you give the opponent a monster after you had to Tribute Summon?? It seems the effect is just as ugly as his image. This makes the opponent go plus (even when in attack position. If the opponent can protect it, he has an extra monster). - Worm Victory:
FLIP: Destroy all face-up monsters on the field, except Reptile-Type "Worm" monsters. This card gains 500 ATK for each Reptile-Type "Worm" monster in your Graveyard.
It’s a Level 7 Worm (So another target for W Nebula Meteorite) but then you lose his effect which could make the opponent go minus. This effect could be good, but Tribute setting seems a bit awkward and time consuming. You also need 2 Tributes for this, so you go minus in most occasions. - Worm Warlord:
This card cannot be Special Summoned. Negate the effects of Effect Monsters destroyed by battle with this card. If this card destroys an opponent's monster by battle, it can attack once again in a row.
This card can make you go plus on the Attacking side, but since you Tribute Summoned it, you already went minus before that. Worth it? - Worm Xex:
When this card is Normal Summoned, you can send 1 Reptile-type "Worm" monster from your Deck to the Graveyard. If you control a face-up "Worm Yagan", this card cannot be destroyed by battle.
Not a plus on its own, but combined with “Worm Yagan”, a serious threat. Sending a Worm to your Graveyard can be considered as a bit of Deck Thinning, which can help you to. - Worm Yagan:
If the only monster you control is "Worm Xex", you can Special Summon this card from your Graveyard in face-down Defense Position. If you do, remove it from play when it is removed from the field. When this card is flipped face-up, select 1 face-up monster your opponent controls, and return it to it's owner's hand.
Wow, just wow. This card on his own is a really good minus for the opponent. This card works a bit like “Compulsory Evacuation Device”, and combined with “Worm Xex” you can even make more plusses.
Summon “Worm Xex”, send “Worm Yagan”. Special Summon “Worm Yagan” face-down (+1). Next turn bounce a monster (+2). - Worm Zero:
2 or more Reptile-Type "Worm" monsters.
For each Fusion Material Monster with a different name used to Fusion Summon this card, it gains 500 ATK, and also gains these effects: * 2+: Once per turn, you can select 1 Reptile-Type monster in your Graveyard, and Special Summon it in face-down Defense Position. * 4+: You can remove from play 1 Reptile-Type monster from your Graveyard to send 1 monster on the field to the Graveyard. * 6+: Once per turn, you can draw 1 card.
This card could give good plusses, but since “Future Fusion” has been banned, this card is pretty hard to summon with 6 Materials. - W Nebula Meteorite:
Change all face-down monsters on the field to face-up Defense Position. During the End Phase this turn, change all face-up LIGHT Reptile-Type monsters you control to face-down Defense Position, then draw 1 card for each. After that, you can Special Summon 1 Level 7 or higher LIGHT Reptile-Type monster from your Deck.
So after activation, you can get your Flip effects, then set them again for later activation, then draw some cards, and then summon a high level monster? Well, this is a good plus for your Deck. - Worm Call:
Once per turn, if your opponent controls a monster and you control no monsters, you can Special Summon 1 Reptile-Type "Worm" monster from your hand in face-down Defense Position.
Decent enough card. You could do some fun stuff with this card that could make you go plus a lot.
- Worm Apocalypse:
I have just made a huge list why all these archetype cards are good or bad. What makes them plus or minus and so on. This is, like I said, the hardest thing to do for a Decklist. So I’m going to quit this lesson right here, so we can practise on this somewhat.
This will be your homework that you have to send to me in a pm:
- Homework:
- Imagine you’re building a “Worm”-Control Deck. You need a couple of Worms, and you’re just about to decide what you’re going to pick.
a. What Worms will you choose? . / 2,5
(There are 6 Worms worth playing in a Worm Control Build, name 5 of them).
b. How many of each of those 5 Worms will you play? . / 2,5
(For Example: 2x Worm Prince) - Name 2 easy ways of using “Worm Victory”. You are not allowed to Tribute Summon him!! . / 2
- Worm Apocalypse was the very first card I told you about in this Archetype. Give me 1 reason why you should use it and also 1 replacement card that you could use if you decide not to use Apocalyse (this card can be anything. Pick the best out there that has the similar effect to destroy 1 Spell or Trap Card.) . / 1
- Worms isn’t the only Archetype in the game. Name 4 different Archetypes that are used a lot in the current metagame. (You cannot pick “Worms” or any of the Archetypes stated above in this lesson.) Follow the rules of an Archetype!! . / 2
- Imagine you’re building a “Worm”-Control Deck. You need a couple of Worms, and you’re just about to decide what you’re going to pick.
Similar topics
» KM888 - Lesson Beginner #1
» KM888 - Lesson Basics
» nordics lesson
» KM888 here :)
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» KM888 - Lesson Basics
» nordics lesson
» KM888 here :)
» KM888's classroom
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